American Apparel backs Butt magazine
FREEDOM OF EXPRESSION / Freedom & art are important, says company head
Shauna Lewis / National / Saturday, January 24, 2009
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American Apparel says it will continue to carry and defend Butt magazine and its right to freedom of expression, despite one West Vancouver mother's complaint about the gay magazine's allegedly prominent placement — and the city fine the store received as a result.

"Butt is a wonderful fashion, culture and art magazine," says American Apparel spokesperson Ryan Holiday from the store's headquarters in Los Angeles. "It's particularly popular with metropolitan adults and fashion insiders who shop at American Apparel. We are proud to carry it."

"I wanted our company to be open enough to accommodate this kind of magazine," Dov Charney, the 40-year-old head of American Apparel, said in a 2007 internal email addressed to staff. "Freedom, art and photography are important to me and I am standing firm on my support for Butt. No question that it is going to offend people and it is my feeling that that is the nature of provocative art."

On Jan 10 while shopping with her 13-year-old daughter at Park Royal shopping centre in West Vancouver, Trina Campbell was offended when she wandered into an American Apparel store and right up to a rack of clothes and a mannequin display.

Campbell says she was "drawn" to the "sparkly" backpack on the shelf and was further interested in the magazine peaking out of the bag. "It caught my attention," she admits.

The publication on display was Butt magazine, an Amsterdam-based gay quarterly filled with pink-hued pages, photographs and candid interviews with gay artists, photographers and pornographers.

Campbell, who claims she is not a prude or opposed to nudity, quickly grabbed the magazine after seeing a nude male on the cover. "I found it interesting, I found it eye-catching. I didn't find it offensive in anyway," she says.

But when the magazine flipped open to the centre spread revealing two men rimming, Campbell says she was unprepared for what she saw. "It was an artfully done photograph but it was two men engaged in sex. It was shocking," she says.

Campbell says she "slammed it closed and put it back" and left the store immediately, then returned briefly to complain to clerks about selling what she describes as "pornography."

SPREAD WIDE OPEN. Trina Campbell saw this centre spread in Butt magazine and complained to clerks at American Apparel.
(Photo by Jeff Burton, courtesy of Butt magazine)
"I was disgusted when I thought of all the kids I knew that had probably been in that store that day," she says. "Porn is not for children and I think that most gays and lesbians would agree with me. The kind of sexual activity going on in the picture is not something that my child would have been able to understand and place in the right context."

Becki Ross, professor of Women's Studies and Sociology at the University of British Columbia, suggests the experience might have been better utilized as a "teaching moment" between Campbell and her teenage daughter.

"Rather than communicate to youth that queer imagery — and by extension, queer sex — is dirty, shameful and deserving of expulsion for the social/psychic landscape, Trina might seize upon opportunities for conversation about sexual pleasures of all varieties, hence supplementing a woefully inadequate sex education in schools," says Ross.

"Not at her age," replies Campbell, when asked if she had considered having a conversation with her daughter about sexual diversity after seeing the magazine.

"I don't really want to go there," she says. "This isn't about me and my daughter, it's about other families with children."

"This is another example of sexual negativity in our culture," says John Ince, head of the BC Sex Party.

Campbell's knee-jerk reaction is proof that sexual oppression still exists in western society, says Ince, who also co-owns the Art of Loving sex store.

"We see the same pattern over and over again. It's okay for teens to see in newspapers, in newscasts, in magazines the full range of human expression, including death, disfigurement, dismemberment, horror, anxiety and pain — but images of sexual display are not acceptable."

Canadian gay writer, producer and pornographer Bruce LaBruce agrees.

"The violence that children are allowed to watch [is] based on torture; women are tortured. I don't think there should be censorship but I find that offensive," he says.

LaBruce says he understands how explicit sexual images can shock some people but says this issue is "a bit of a tempest in a teapot," adding that he thinks Campbell overreacted.

"One person complained when hundreds of people would have walked away," he suggests.

LaBruce, a past contributor to Butt, describes the magazine as being "low tech" and its content reminiscent of a more "simple aesthetic" and a nod to the artsy and intellectual gay men that were coming of age two decades ago.

"It's almost like an oral history, so to speak," he quips. "They were living their lives. They were very promiscuous. They were very creative. They were a little more wild, especially in the '80s," he explains. "Butt is more in the spirit of this old gay consciousness."

The centre spread in question features an image of two men reflected in a window, one with his legs spread while the other eats his ass. The photo is the work of Jeff Burton, porn-still photographer and artist.

Butt magazine says the work is art. "It's not pornography," insists managing editor and publisher Jop van Bennekom, who is calling the West Van magazine controversy "Trinagate."

"We are making a sweet, liberated, ironic and honest gay magazine."

Butt is "very in your face," van Bennekom continues, adding that the magazine's content is primarily about, art, politics, creativity and sexuality.

Van Bennekom says the fuss surrounding the issue is comical. "Maybe it's being European; I think it's a bit ridiculous, this whole thing. I think people are more concerned with decency in North America."

Van Bennekom says Butt is sold worldwide and has an annual distribution of 150,000. The magazine is very popular with university students ages 20-30, says van Bennekom, adding that since "Trinagate" orders for Butt have risen.

Following her encounter with the magazine, Campbell was so distraught she decided to tell her story to CBC news. That's when the city of West Vancouver got involved and slapped American Apparel with $100 fine.

Liz Holitzki, manager of permits, inspections and bylaws for the District of West Vancouver, says it's important that businesses know that the city is not saying adult sexual materials cannot be sold. But they must be displayed in opaque covers and only on shelves of a certain height to ensure they're not open to public view.

As far as Holitzki is aware, no one in West Van has ever been fined under this bylaw before. The bylaw has been in place since 1995.

The city of Vancouver adopted the same bylaw in 1984, says chief licensing inspector Barb Windsor.

City business license bylaw 4450, section 10.2 entitled Adult Publications states that: "Except where the business is an adult entertainment store licensed under this By-law, no person carrying on any trade, business or occupation shall display or permit to be displayed an 'adult publication' except as herein provided: a) no 'adult publication' shall be located on any shelf the bottom edge of which is no less than forty-seven inches from the floor b) all 'adult publications' shall be placed behind a sheet of opaque plastic or other opaque substance which extends for the full length of the shelf on which such publications are placed and which extends vertically for at least eight inches from the bottom shelf."

Windsor says no fines have been issued in Vancouver.

American Apparel says it will continue to carry Butt magazine and maintains it's standing behind the magazine for the purpose of free expression and not notoriety. "Carrying Butt magazine is not a publicity stunt," says Holiday. "It's something that we feel is an important artistic statement."



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Reader Comments


 
I didn't realise....
That American Apparel was a children's store....If the child didn't see it - who cares? If the child did, maybe mommy could take the appropriate opportunity to open her child's mind. Or just take a freakin' chill pill.
Sue, Vancouver BC
01/17/09 7:43 PM EST
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Morons!
No Sue you're wrong! 99.9% of North American parents can not even approach the subject of proper eating, exercise and putting down the damn Game Boy let alone explaining same sex activities that the LAW prevents underage children from purchasing and viewing. It could have been placed behind the counter or away from small underage eyes.
Lead, London England
01/18/09 10:43 AM EST
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99.9% Sue, Talk about IGNORANCE
I am gay and in no way consenting to the placement of porn for the viewing of children. That should be first done in a most sacred, healthy manner, sex education class if the parent is unable to do it. The store should not have placed the mag where it did, and the parent was honourable in how she handled the situations. I commend her for her actions to protect her child and making a complaint to the store. Sex is beautiful, and just because I don’t think it should be plastered all over the streets for those who may not be yet sexually educated to perceive it in a healthy manner (that being our innocent young) does not make me sexually negative. Artist (and I am one) need to be conscious and aware. Now for the commentator from Leeds, London, England and referencing the 99.9% of American parents remarks: you need to look into your own English culture before you go castigating Americans. This actually happened in CANADA not the USA- there is a significant difference; and I am a very proud Canadian. Yes, America has its parenting problems and Canada too, but as for the English pointing fingers, you have some deep insidious problems that need attention first. England has porn on your TV's daily, has the highest rate of teenage pregnancy in the world; porn and alcohol can be purchased any of your stores; sexual addiction and STDs are rampant, crime is out of control- English girls are considered the most violent in the world; and your medical authority actually had to promulgate a warning against binge drinking to the point of bursting ones bladder- apparently it is on the rise and note the puzzled look on my face-; need I go on. I doubt that the English will never be known or go down in history as the most conscience of parents. That off my chest, I live in England and know some very exceptional parents here too.
Ray, Nottingham England
01/19/09 9:09 AM EST
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Poor Choice by Store
I am gay and a stalwart supporter of the Cause, but displaying a magazine featuring graphic images where someone under 19 can see it is just plain wroing. The store deserves the $100.00 fine, and should in future place such material top shelf and in a wrapper. Time enough for kids to learn about sexuality, and it should be done in an appropriate and sensitive manner.
Kieran Earles, Mount Pearl Newfoundland
01/19/09 3:33 PM EST
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Unfair article
I'm a straight ally, a champion of the cause, and I hope we can get past gay/straight and see the issue for what it is: this AA store acted in violation of a city bylaw. The bylaw isn't anti-gay and there's nothing in the story to indicate that Campbell is either. One can be a Butt Magazine fan and be proud that AA carries it in their stores and still admit that sex doesn't need to be that accessible to kids. If you think it's no big deal, it's the bylaw you have a problem with.
Jessica, Victoria BC
01/19/09 4:58 PM EST
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pick the right fight
I wonder what other "graphic" images the kid saw on the way to the mall? I wonder if the kid saw an ad for Clint Eastwood's new film where he's holding a menacing gun? That seems graphic. How about the homeless person curled up in a pile of sleeping bags? A society that allows its people to live on the street seems abhorrently graphic, no? Or wait - how about a teenager with a seriously messy case of secondary Syphilis because his parent was too "shocked" to talk about the normal things that people do together? Personally, I find second-stage Syphilis far, far more shocking than bum-rimming. And I suspect a kid would find someone who doesn't have a home considerably more shocking than bodies tangled up in a pile. So rather than whining about two dudes playing a deliciously sexy and rousing game of butt-hole tongue-surfing, why not spend our energy on the things that will give us more bang for our buck? Like talking to our kids frankly about sex and letting them laugh and joke about it. Or holding our politicians accountable for cutting funds to sexual education and all the subsequent cases of secondary Syphilis? And then of course there's still that homeless guy outside the American Apparel mall...
Adam Graham, Vancouver BC
01/19/09 8:54 PM EST
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Context
While I agree that there are worse things in the world than an premature exposure to sexuality, this has to be put in context. American Apparel cannot control the homeless population outside it's store or second stage syphillis but they can control the customer experience inside their own store. If they want to cater to an older market that is used to images of sexuality in its everyday vernacular then they have to consider the reprecussions of their choice to make adult images easily accessible to everyone. Trina Campbell has every right to complain about the violation of a city bylaw. The fact that the magazine depicted gay sex is not what makes the magazine exceptionally offensive. I would be offended if the magazine depicted straight sex. I can't help but think that the only reason American Apparel used the magazine is to shock the consumer by brazenly displaying graphic images. It's a gimmick that does nothing to change the way people think of sexuality or to see gay sex in a more positive light. It only serves as a way of pairing a brand of clothing with the notion of a taboo culture. If you wear American Apparel Clothing, you are counter culture, enjoy all things that are counter culture and controversial (like gay porn) and are therefore cool. It cheapens the efforts of a movement that is struggling for equal rights. They could have used a copy of Hustler, Playboy or Swank but that just isn't counter culture enough. They had to push the envelope and remind everyone that gay images are taboo in an attempt to sell some clothes. I find that more offensive than leaving pornography within a ten year old's reach. Yes, there are bigger things in the world to worry about, but that doesn't mean Trina Campbell is out of line. You can't deflect attention to a comparatively small problem because there are worse things out there.
Cameron Herdman, Vancouver B.C.
01/22/09 1:10 PM EST
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Important note...
I work in the Canadian retail office. We shrinkwrap all of our publications, including BUTT, and BUTT in particular is displayed behind the counter. This lady went out of her way (and out of her place as a customer) onto a display, had to reach her arms over her head and remove the magazine from the display. We were doing our part. She went out of her way to find a problem and make a big stink.
AA retail staff, montreal QC
01/24/09 4:36 PM EST
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Hey CAMERON, get a clue (and read the article!)
AA did not attempt to "shock the consumer by brazenly displaying graphic images". The magazine was closed, inside of a backpack which was on a 6ft tall mannequin, and raised a few feet off the ground! She said herself that she was drawn to the display, kind of like a monkey to something shiny! Bottom line, BUTT is not PORN, and visual displays in a store are NOT meant to be touched by non-employees!
Shira Lee, Boston Massachusetts
01/24/09 4:43 PM EST
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Fashion expression and art
Question to all the posters of comments? Has anyone of you actually picked up the magasine that's been feture for american apperal? There's nothing explicit... but seeing someone butt. Nothing more then that and there's fashion and stuff. Nothing to be excited about and surely nothing that would need to put it behind the counter. I mean if we can have health magasine with half naked people with more revealing nature... this is nothing. If any of you are going to ask how old I am. Consider this. 26 years old, living in Ottawa and yes I'm a gay men with 2 children. Both of them are 4 and 5 and they understand that they have 2 daddy's and there's nothing wrong with having 2 daddy's that are able to understand them and guide them. So again... I think some of the posters comments are way off. 2 simple gay dad's. Michael Gray.
Michael Gray, Ottawa Ontario
01/28/09 8:19 AM EST
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Irresponsible Mom
Ok, so mom takes her 13 year old in to buy some slut wear and then proceeds to take apart a display in pursuit of something shiny. She sees male nudity on the cover (I own the issue in question) and decides to flip it open, then gets offended. Really, the nudity on the cover would NOT be visible with the magazine even half out of the backpack. Mom decided to take apart a store display, borderline vandalism. The store is sexualized, the magazine was not out in the open, I don't see a problem beyond Mom.
Chris Rowlinson, Mississauga Ontario
01/30/09 1:44 PM EST
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